Grapes Migrate Off the Cheese Plate


There’s something naughty about a fresh, ripe grape. The way its thin skin is pierced as we bite down to release sugary and sour juices that at once make your tongue shiver and your taste buds dance a little jig. While grapes are a natural guest at any respectable cheese party, the little sweet-tart globules are making their way into main courses.

Any collector or owner of vintage cookbooks has probably scratched their head at some point upon seeing grapes plopped unapologetically into cream sauces and served along roast beast or fowl. While execution may be the downfall in these old-time dishes, the concept is sound. Grapes, either enjoyed as an icy cold addition to a savory dish or heated to release their natural sugars, are popping up in unusual ways.

Take for instance, the season finale of the third season of Top Chef. When faced with the last minute challenge of creating a fourth course, seasoned competitor and chef Dale Levitski paired sliced green grapes with purslane (a succulent, peppery herb often unfortunately viewed as a weed) to create a fresh, herbal bed upon which sat a perfectly pan-seared scallop.

And that’s the key to utilizing grapes in savory dishes – pairing the sweet, tangy and tart fruit with a tender, caramelized and often-salty counterpoint. A variety of cooks and chefs pair grapes with strong cheeses, roasted fowl, strong fresh greens like arugula and spinach, cured meats such as bacon and sausage and of course fresh pork and firm fish.

To caramelize over direct heat, sauté seedless grapes for 10 to 12 minutes over medium to medium-high heat – either on their own or towards the end of the cooking process for the meat or fish to which you’re pairing the grapes. Another great idea is to oven roast bunches of grapes in a 400 degree oven for about 30-35 minutes (lining your baking sheet with parchment paper) to caramelize the grapes’ natural sugar content and concentrate their flavor. These grapes make a sweet and savory – and edible – garnish to roasted meats, salads and even, cheesecakes.

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