Açaí, Agave and Goji, Oh My

Add mangosteens to that list and you’ll be up-to-date on the trendy flavors you’ll see strutting their stuff down your grocer’s aisles just like hot models show us what’s in this season.

On a recent scavenger hunt to one of the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade’s Fancy Food Shows (a tradeshow emporium representing producers of specialty food items from around the globe) it was obvious that many food manufacturers are hoping these new, or should we say recently rediscovered, plants will be as hot as the masses of pomegranate items we’ve seen burst onto the seen the last three years.

So, to get you up to speed, here’s a brief primer on these little goodies:

Açaí berries are the tropical rainforest version of a blueberry although not in the same species, of course. Take a quick climb up a palm tree somewhere in the Amazon and you’ll find strands of açaí (ah-sigh-ee) berries, from the açaí palm, swinging in the breeze. Botanically speaking, the fruit is a drupe (other popular drupes include coffee, mangoes, olives, coconuts, pistachios, almonds, apricots, nectarines, peaches and plums.)

Deep purple, açaí berries have a bright berry flavor with almost a hint of chocolate or mocha in the background. They’re highly perishable so most of the berries are frozen or dried and in most recent incarnations, made into a bottled juice. Açaí berries are slightly oily to the touch like olives as both have a high fatty acid content.

So why are açaí berries becoming the ‘in-fruit’ now? Nutritional analysis indicates that a serving contains a higher antioxidant count than blueberries and pomegranates along with a high content of b-vitamins. Look for juices and juice blends while perusing the grocers or specialty food stores. Even legendary beer producer Anheuser Busch has jumped onto the açaí bandwagon with 180 Blue, an energy drink.

Since tequila has become the new scotch, something has to be done with the plethora of agave (uh-gah-vay) plants that are taking over the hillsides of Mexico. So, enter agave ketchup, agave syrup, agave juice drinks and the list goes on.

Agave comes from the piña, or core of the plant as its nectar is pressed then heated. The result is agave syrup that is sweeter and thinner than most honey. Since it has a low glycemic index than other natural sweeteners (and some feel it is sweeter than sugar), it’s becoming more popular in prepared foods especially organic products. Standard substitution ratios for using agave instead of sugar recommend using 25 percent less of the nectar than sugar – i.e. ¾ cup of agave nectar should equal 1-cup sugar.

Goji (go-gee) berries look like some sort of raisin gone wrong. That’s because they’re typically found dry for snacking or baking and added to trail mixes (there were a lot of people in dreadlocks hawking these things). In Asian cuisine, goji berries are added to rice porridge and teas. They’re a deep peach color with an opacity not found in raisins. Goji berries are not a sweet dried fruit as they sort of taste like a flowery child of a cranberry that got its groove on with a tomato.

Primarily grown in China (do we need to test them for lead, too?), goji berries are part of the same botanical family that includes potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and chilies. The Chinese have long believed that goji berries are good for many health ailments including boosting our immune systems.

Growing on vines, the berries look like little oval tomatoes and since they have soft skins when ripe, the harvesting process is tedious. Once picked, they’re air dried – although with increase interest mechanical drying has been employed recently. They’re peak season for harvesting is August.

Like the designer handbag that everyone wants and yet no one has gotten their well-manicure hands-upon, mangosteens are receiving all of the fruit hype. Like little albino orange slices hidden inside a dye-rich hard shell, trying to enjoy a fresh mangosteen is like shoplifting a designer dress and ruining it when you took pliers to the ink sensor. They’re floral like lemon grass, creamy and have a hint of peach.

Just within the past few months have legal mangosteens made their little hard-shelled trip to upscale farmers markets and restaurants in New York City because there is a ban on importing mangosteens (because of bugs) from the countries that have the highest yields. Countries like Puerto Rico and other Caribbean cousins can grow mangosteens because they have the necessary high humidity but there have been few producers because the little fruit needs a lot of coddling. Hawaii also grows mangosteens but they too are often banned from the continental states and go on to enjoy their edible demise in Japan and the East.

Selling for anywhere from $15 to $45 per pound in New York, many restaurateurs have sought out mangosteen farmers to grow crops specifically for their use offering their diners a simple, yet much sought after delight.

So, the designer mangosteen will probably not be making it to our local TJ Maxx or Filene’s Basement anytime soon. In the meantime, don’t go for that cheap knockoff on the corner – the frozen and thawed mangosteen. It’s not worth it. It’ll draw you in just like a faux Chanel buckle, but it’ll treat you bad once you crack it open. Instead, opt for mangosteen juice (or most likely a juice blend) and sit back and take a cool sip. Oh, and start saving for a trip to the tropics.

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